Reflections on Paris

Thank you for following my ponderings and wanderings this week! This post is more reflections than travel tips, alors faites attentention à cela :)

On solo travel: Paradoxically, I feel more at home in France when I travel alone. I find that I meet more people when I’m solo than I do with a friend or a group. I also feel more comfortable making spontaneous decisions and traveling without an itinerary when I'm alone. I love the flexibility, the time for reflection, and the freedom that traveling alone offers me. That said, this week I'm very excited to travel to Nice to meet my mom, because we always have a riot when we travel together.

On Paris: This trip has revealed how deeply nostalgic Paris can be. The monuments, museums and landmarks, while modernized for tourism, all speak to a deep and abiding love and respect for French history and culture. Everything from the palaces to the cemeteries to the masterpieces remain frozen in time. While this allows for a uniform experience when you visit the sites, it does breathe with the same life as you might find in a cafe or bar where the locals hang out. I appreciated staying in the 20e arrondissement, which is very residential, because it helped balance out the somewhat impersonal feel of the museums and monuments. Next time I visit Paris, I wonder if I'll spend even less time at the sites and more time in the neighborhoods and markets.

My only lingering question is if I were a young French citizen, would I see myself represented in the Parisian cultural sites? Today's France is very diverse, and I did not see that reflected in many of the monuments and museums that I visited. Are new artists and thinkers being given the same chance and recognition as those already in the French canon? My guess would be that they are, but that they are not in the spotlight and so not visible to a tourist like me.

On the French language: The more time I spend speaking French, the more I fall in love with the language. I love the way it sounds, the way it feels in my mouth, and the pride French people feel for the language. Mostly, I feel grateful that I had the chance to learn French as early as I did, because it has given me the opportunity to explore more deeply and communicate more easily in France. Thanks, Mom and Dad for believing in the power of a bilingual elementary education!

On Parisians: You've probably heard the rumors about rude Parisians who dislike Americans. I have never experienced this, but I do think that my experience is fairly unique. What I have seen is that Parisians are very excited to have tourists back in their city, and that they appreciate it when foreigners make an effort to speak their language. Parisians are stylish but approachable, and they make the best tour guides (other than Rick). Also, they love it when Americans speak French with an American accent. I had never considered this, but I guess it makes sense! I would highly recommend getting to know at least one local, such as your Airbnb host or a local bakery staff member, who can give you helpful recommendations for your area.

On French pastry: I'm obsessed with butter. So are the French. It's a match made in heaven.

À bientôt Paris, je t'aime!

Paris Museum Pass: 48 hours

48 hours with the famous museum pass - €52 (+ €1.33 if bought online).

So! This was my first time using the museum pass (PMP) in Paris as an adult, and I have to say that I don’t fully agree with Rick’s advice on this one. He recommends buying the pass in Paris at a museum (however I am using an outdated 2020 version of the Rick Steves France book). I would actually recommend ordering the museum pass online, and booking your Louvre and Versailles times well in advance, since they each require a timed entry ticket even with the museum pass. Since I did not follow my own advice this time, I was not able to get a last minute ticket for the Louvre or the Trianon at Versailles. However it was not a big deal since there is way too much to see in 48 hours as it is.

I saw the Musée d’Orsay (my favorite museum in the world), la Sainte Chapelle, the Versailles palace, l’Arc de Triomphe at sunset, and l’Orangerie during my 48 hours with the PMP.

I started my time around 14h on Saturday at The Musée d’Orsay. This immense former train station now houses the best collection of impressionist art in the world (in my opinion). The restaurant on the second floor is well worth a stop for an overpriced coffee or pastry even if just to enjoy the setting (the pastries are also good). I followed Rick’s walking tour throughout the museum and enjoyed the pacing and Rick’s weird humor. I would not recommend the current special exhibit on Gaudi (unless you’re a huge Gaudi fan), because it was crowded and not particularly interesting.

After the museum, I took a long but lovely walk to the Sainte Chapelle, on Île de la Cité. It was convenient to cut the ticket line with the PMP, although I still had to wait in the security line with everyone else. The stained glass really makes this quick stop a must see during every visit to Paris.

Perhaps the longest line I waited in all day was a Starbucks (I needed an outlet and WiFi for my phone), which somehow feels wrong to me.

On Sunday it was time to brave the crowds of Versailles. I had to take two metro lines and a train to get to Versailles, so be sure to leave plenty of extra time to make any necessary changes. Versailles was, well, Versailles. I had not been since I was too young to remember it, and I have to say it surpassed my expectations. The queen’s bedroom was my favorite room in the castle, although of course the hall of mirrors deserves an honorable mention as well. The line for the restaurant at the castle was too frightening for me to brave it, so I opted to skip the gardens (not included in the Museum Pass), and to wander the streets of the beautiful planned town of Versailles instead. Leaving the castle around 14h, I noticed that the ticket line had grown to Disney proportions. I can’t recommend getting your timed ticket for the castle (and the Trianon) as far in advance as you can.

Most things in the town were closed Sunday afternoon, and it was fun to see the town out and about in their Sunday best on their way to the Versailles Cathedral. I did stumble upon a delightful coffee shop (with a nice WC) near the train station called The Stray Bean. I can recommend the cafe latte and the carrot cake very highly!

On Sunday evening I made the trip over to l’Arc de Triomphe (Metro and RER, both included on the same metro ticket). I was excited to cut the ticket line yet again with the Museum Pass. I did not read up on the monument before going over, and I had forgotten about the 200+ steps to the top. Still, the view from the top was well worth the climb. The panoramic view of the city is exquisite, and the crowd of tourists who gather at sunset to watch the Eiffel Tower light up have got the right idea. I was lucky to have good weather since the roof is uncovered. If you have the patience to wait, you can see the Tour sparkle from 22h00 to 22h05, and then descend from the monument with everyone else. The Arc itself when illuminated at night is equally stunning.

L’Orangerie on Monday morning was surprisingly empty! I thought it would be overrun since so many museums are closed Monday, but I was pleasantly surprised. For me, this is a must see when in Paris. Until July 11, there is also an amazing exhibit on Impressionist Decor downstairs at l’Orangerie. P.S. this museum has the best wifi around!

After a sandwich at the cafe it was noon, so I could have squeezed in one more museum before 14h, but honestly I was ready for a nap. La Conciergerie is also open Mondays, but I wasn’t feeling the guillotine vibes today. Plus I need to save something for next time!

I think what I enjoy so much about the Museum Pass is the puzzle-like challenge that it presents. I took a somewhat unconventional approach to the pass by spreading it over three days rather than two full days of sightseeing. I know that two museums per day is essentially my limit, so I figured that I would make better use of it this way. You could maximize your pass by staring your PMP's time on a day that would not include a Monday, since so many things are closed Mondays. In any case, the Paris Museum Pass is a good deal if you are planning to see about two included museums/monuments per day, and they are things that you would have wanted to see regardless.

Before I go, here's one more key tip: hold onto your metro ticket until you have fully exited the metro or train system. Generally you don’t need your ticket to exit the station, but if they are checking tickets you risk a €35+ fine for not having your ticket on you.

À bientôt mes amis!

Paris: Bienvenue Chez Moi

Let's talk Airbnbs! One of my favorite things to do before a trip is to look at Airbnbs all over the city. For this trip, I booked a room fairly last minute and really lucked out. Choosing a place to stay is a personal decision, but here is what I look for:

1. An accessible location. The closer to metro, the better.

2. Cute or fun decor. A nice environment puts me in a good mood and gets me excited to explore.

3. Natural light, or even a balcony if I am ready to splurge.

4. Amenities. A nicely sized bed, towels, a fridge and microwave, and an espresso machine. It's also nice to be in a building with an elevator and/or AC, but these are not essentials for me. Some apartments even have a laundry machine, which is really deluxe! Take time to think about what really matters to you when you're traveling before you book.

5. I also look at the Host's rating and reviews, and of course the price.

I am staying in the 20e arrondissement for this trip, but I have stayed in the 7e, 8e, and 2e in the past. The 20e is further from the city center, but since I am well connected on the 3 metro line, I was willing to trade the convenience of being centrally located for the lower price of the 20e. Each arrondissement has its charms, so be sure to do your research before booking.

Here are some of my favorite aspects of the apartment I am renting; the vibrant colors in the living room, the kitty in the courtyard, and the lovely street where it is located.

PS: here is a peak at some of the other Parisian apartments I have rented in the past: